Vibrating butt plug tutorial
- an egg vibrator (also called love egg or bullet vibrator, sold in sex shops and online retailers)
- soft wax
- aluminum foil
- a heat-proof vase
- a baking oven
- an old kitchen knife
- hot glue sticks
- a candle
The technique is based on the Make your own butt plug tutorial from June 2008, using a mold and hot glue. An egg vibrator is infused into the plug while it's liquid.
Step 1: Making the wax model
The wax model has to be big enough to accommodate the vibrating egg. It's also good to make it a few millimeters bigger in all directions than you want the final plug to be: this way you'll have more material to cut away, which is good.
- Normal candle wax has a too high melting point for modeling well (too hard when at temperatures you can touch and knead). I then mixed it with some of the leftover cheese wax and this was better. But the pure cheese wax was best. If you can get large enough quantities of such, go for it.
- First I tried to model the wax around the egg, but when I tried to cut it open to remove the egg, it all broke apart and I had to make a new model, this time without the egg inside.
Step 2: Making the mold
I tried a new technique for the mold: aluminum foil instead of plaster. It worked, but I can't really say it was much better than the plaster method.
- very simple to make
- no waiting time
- may leak easily
- may not keep its shape so well
- sticks to the hot glue just as badly as the plaster
Step 3: Melting the wax and the hot glue
At about 180°C, liquify the wax and pour it out of the mold. Then at about 100°C, put the glue sticks in and let them melt. A heat-proof vase and some more aluminum foil can help to stabilize the mold in the upright position.
You won't need to fill the mold to the brim because the egg vibrator will occupy some space: 60% to 70% should be enough.
- My mold leaked the wax, but luckily it didn't leak the glue later on, as it's more viscous.
Step 4: Dipping in the egg
Now it's time for the exciting part: push the egg into the liquid glue, as straight and centered as possible, and to the right depth. The heat of the glue should not damage the egg or the wire. At least it didn't do any damage to mine.
Check if there is enough hot glue material. In my case it wasn't, so I put the whole thing back in the oven for a few minutes, right with the egg inside, adding some more glue and hoping for the best. It worked.
Make a short check with batteries to see whether the egg still functions. Check the position of the egg once more, as good as you can, and if you think it's okay, stabilize the wire and let the whole thing cool down for a few hours.
- It's hard to get the egg really upright. Mine was slightly tilted to one side, but thanks to the extra material I had added it was still within limits.
Step 5: Removing the mold and carving the shape
An old kitchen knife is your best friend when the job is removing material of cold hot glue, and stuff that sticks to it. The good thing is that when you come towards the end, the shape doesn't have to be perfectly smooth: There is a good way to do this by means of heat. I found out that a candle flame works much better for this than a hairdryer.
Hot glue, luckily, has the property of contracting itself to smooth shapes, whether convex or concave, when liquified. I discovered how easy it is to change details in the shape by melting a part and using gravity to direct the flow of the material. And you can do this anytime later whenever you feel the plug is not perfect in some way or another. This is something no sex toy you can buy in a shop can do.
Follow these instructions and use your toy 100% at your own risk. If your toy is too thin anywhere, it may break off during use, so you'll want to keep the material's properties in mind when you design the model. And don't leave it anyplace where temperatures can rise to over 50°C - 60°C, or it may deform.